Faustine Steinmetz opened up London Fashion Week with more of her “bespoke” alterations of fabric, repurposing denim into casual wear that embodies webs, fur and old clothes that have been repaired a thousand times over. The show was presented on Friday, 12 Sep, at the ICA Theatre at the Institute of Contemporary Art. The crowd was excited to be there, especially with it being one of the first shows. Especially exciting was to see Susie Lau of Styelbubble fame expressing great interest and having a long discussion with the designer.
In conversation with Faustine, we talked about her inspiration for the current collection.
All through school I was always impressed with my fellow students who could buy fabric and make it into beautiful clothing. Every time I looked at fabric for my own collections, I had to change it – slash it, cut it or pull out threads. When we started our own studio, we decided we wanted to work with the idea of recycling fabric into something it wasn’t before.
The short jacket is cut like a typical denim jacket but is constructed of the indigo fibres of the weave and the white threads of the weft but pressed into fabric through felting. Like the gossamer threads of a collapsed web, the weight normally associated with denim is made diaphanous.
Steinmetz also has a great love of Issey Miyake and this comes through in her jumpers, cardigans and shawls. A combination of complicated tie-dying combined with sophisticated pressing to give a more geometric complexity to the straight, fine pleats of Miyake.
The jeans have had their fibres cut and pulled out to give the effect of rows of fur, almost like plush animals. The collection was impressive, more for its virtuosic understanding of fabric and we look forward to seeing more from Ms. Steinmetz.